Zara Edwards, beverage manager at Caiola’s, loves the San Savino Offida Ciprea Pecorino 2010 ($22, Wicked), a wine from the Marche region of central eastern Italy that benefits from proximity to the Adriatic Sea.
She writes, “What is so remarkable about this bottle is the vast changes it goes through, both in aroma and flavor characteristics, and in a surprisingly rapid duration, from the time of opening to its last sip. When first opened, this Pecorino is floral and acidic with sharp green tints that sparkle through an intense straw color. It is a great wine to start a meal with, as it will pair with anything from peppery green arugula salads with citrus and even goat and sheep cheeses.” (Pecorino is likely not named after the sheeps’-milk cheese whose name it shares, but instead because historically sheep who roamed the vineyards seemed especially fond of nibbling that grape.)
Edwards continues, “However, with minute aeration, much of the acidity that allows it to pair with such appetizers dissipates, and allows it to develop powerful notes of sage and wildflower, a hint of wood, and a unique viscous texture that could almost be compared to almond milk. What starts out as an acid-driven floral number becomes a creamy, rich, structured wine that can stand up to creamy herbed pasta and grilled white meats and whole fish …” Too often a wine buyer will put a wine on a list after tasting it once with a salesman. But no one could say what Edwards does about this Pecorino without having formed a relationship with it, having followed its story.
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